Canadian Vintage Jewellery: A Collector’s Guide - a work in progress

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Canadian vintage jewellery has a character all its own—think brilliant rhinestone sets from Montréal, bold modernist pewter popularized in the 1960s–70s, and fine silver and gold from storied Canadian houses. This guide brings the history, hallmarks, identification tips, and buying advice together in one place so collectors and shoppers can feel confident when shopping for vintage jewelry from Canada.

Why Canadian vintage jewellery stands out:

From the late 1940s through the 1980s, Montréal and Toronto were buzzing with design—rhinestone powerhouses like Sherman and Continental made exceptional costume pieces, while modernists like Robert Larin and Guy Vidal pushed brutalist forms in pewter, silver, and mixed metals. Birks, founded in 1879, anchored fine jewellery and silver across the country.

The big names (and how to identify them)

Sherman (Montréal, c. 1947/49–1981)

• What to know: Canada’s most collected costume jewellery brand; founded by Gustave (“Gus”) Sherman in Montréal. 
• Materials & look: High-grade Austrian/Swarovski rhinestones; immaculate plating; frequent use of navettes and layered, domed brooch forms and full parures. 
• Signatures: “SHERMAN” (caps), “Sherman” (script), and “Sherman Sterling” on early sterling pieces; typically found on clasps, brooch backs, and earring clips.

Collector tips:

1. Special colourways—such as deep Siam reds, opaque colored stones, fuchsia, hyacinth (orange), purple, alexandrite, and multi-colored (tutti-fruity)—are especially sought after.
2. Wide ‘rigid’ cuff bracelets are among the most valuable of Sherman forms, creating a luxurious presence on the wrist with their bold construction and brilliant stones. Collectors prize them not only for their rarity but also for the way they epitomize the glamour and craftsmanship of Sherman’s mid-century designs.

ALL IMAGES ON THIS SITE ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT. Permission must be granted to use them in any way. ©Vintage Jewelry Girl. All rights reserved.

Continental (Montréal, 1943–1997)

• What to know: Founded by Sam Baker and Sol Mayoff; by the early 1950s it was a leading producer of mid-priced rhinestone jewellery in Canada and a major rival to Sherman. Some critics say that Continental copied Sherman, which may be somewhat true given that most designers gained inspiration from their rivals. Costume Jewelry Collectors Int'l 

• Signatures: Usually “Continental” (sometimes stylized) on the reverse.

Collector tips: Having sold a lot of Continental over the years, we feel that this brand is overlooked and undervalued. Many of their designs are unique and Continental played with a variety of unusual stones more than the Sherman company did. 

D’Orlan (Toronto, est. 1957)

• What to know: Founded by Maurice J. Bradden (trained under Marcel Boucher). In 1984 the company partnered with Nina Ricci; their pieces are known for a 22k triple-plated finish and widespread use of Swarovski crystal. Designs are often classic and conservative, with a few standout exceptions. 
• What to look for: Clean casting, classic designs, consistent gold tone from the triple plating, and signed findings or cartouches.

Collector tips: In terms of value and collectability, look for pieces with color in either the enamel or stone work. Figurals including exotic bird designs are of particular interest. These pieces are harder to come by. 

Large 5 1/2" long D'Orlan Enamel and Rhinestone Bird Brooch 

ALL IMAGES ON THIS SITE ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT. Permission must be granted to use them in any way. ©Vintage Jewelry Girl. All rights reserved.

Jay Flex (Montréal, early 1930s–mid-1960s)

• What to know: Sterling-based rhinestone jewellery (often rhodium plated)—unusual quality for rhinestone lines of the day. There is discussion in collector groups regarding this designer mark, questioning if the pieces are in fact sterling silver under the plating or if the “Sterling” refers to the jewelry being of exceptional quality or character. Testing for silver requires either damaging the piece or the plating so this remains inconclusive. Vintage Jewelry Girl insight: Of the pieces that I have had with this mark that I was able to test, I did get a positive read for sterling silver through acid testing methods so I do believe that their metal consists of at least some silver. 
• Signatures: “JAY FLEX STERLING.”

Collector tips: Jay Flex designs are delicate and often best described as geometric. Always buy what you love—chances are, others will love it too. For added value, look for standout pieces like the necklace below or sought-after colors such as red. 

Robert Larin (Montréal, late 1960s–1970s) & Guy Vidal (Montréal, 1960s–1970s)

• What to know: Robert Larin and Guy Vidal (pronounced “Ghee Vee-DAHL”) were icons of Canadian modernist/brutalist jewellery. Larin’s studio produced cast pewter (plus mixed metals) with textural, organic forms; Vidal worked in pewter, silver, copper, and other metals with sculptural designs. 
• Signatures: Distinct maker marks; Larin’s hallmarks vary but are well documented in collector references. They may include “Robert Larin” in script, or R.Larin in block letters. (Images to come!) Jewellery Kaleidoscope 

Why They Matter

• Both were part of the Canadian modernist wave that paralleled international brutalist design in the 1960s–70s.
• Their work pushed jewelry beyond ornament into artistic expression, aligning with sculpture and architecture of the period.
• Today, collectors value them not only as jewelry but as examples of mid-century Canadian design history.

Robert Larin

• Active period: Mid-1960s through the 1970s - early 80s, mainly in Montréal.
• Materials & methods: Best known for pewter, though his workshop also combined bronze, copper, and silver accents. His pieces were cast in molds, then finished with handwork to create unique textures.
• Style: Strongly modernist and brutalist — lots of organic, bark-like surfaces, abstract geometric patterns, and chunky, sculptural forms.
• Collectability: Pieces can be both signed and unsigned but identifiable by style. Signed pieces with his name or hallmark are especially prized. Affordable compared to silver modernists, making his work a great entry point into Canadian brutalist jewelry.

Robert Larin Webbed Cuff Bracelet

Robert Larin Modernist Cuff Bracelet

Guy Vidal

• Active period: 1960s - 1970s with some information pointing into the early 80s, also based in Montréal.
• Materials & methods: Worked in pewter, sterling silver, copper, and mixed metals. Many pieces were hand-cast and had distinctive patinas. Worthpoint
• Style: Bold, sculptural, often asymmetrical with negative space, heavy texturing, and architectural qualities. Like wearable abstract sculpture.
• Collectability: Our market observation is that it is a bit more valued than Larin because of his design innovation. Pieces are sought internationally and often appear in design auctions.

Guy Vidal Necklace

Guy Vidal Seriously Chunky Modernist Daisy Bracelet

Guy Vidal Vidal Vertebrae Bracelet

Birks (Henry Birks & Sons; Montréal origin, 1879–present)

• What to know: Canada’s heritage jeweller and silversmith, Birks Group Inc. (founded as Henry Birks & Sons in 1879), is a luxury jeweller, silversmith, and watchmaker headquartered in Montréal. The company expanded nationally in the early 1900s, merged with U.S. Mayors Jewelers in 2005 to form Birks & Mayors, and later rebranded simply as Birks Group. Its Montréal boutique has long been a landmark, and the brand continues to operate retail and manufacturing facilities across Canada and the United States. Vintage Birks jewelry and presentation boxes—particularly sterling silver ring boxes—are highly collectible, with many pieces commanding strong prices. Often called the “Tiffany of Canada,” Birks is regarded as one of the country’s premier fine jewelry houses. WIkipedia

Birks “Dare to Dream” heirloom ring in 18K white, yellow, and rose gold with diamonds all around! Bold yet delicate, the elements form an unbreakable bond - a tribute to your lifelong relationships. Timeless. Inscribed with the words, “Dance In The Rain, Smile With The Sun, Dream With The Clouds.”

Birks Joannie Rochette Sterling Silver Heart Pendant on Chain

Keyes Jewellery (Montréal, c. 1962- to at least 1999)

What to know: A Canadian costume jewellery company based in Montréal, Keyes “Keyes Jewellers Mfg Ltd” was active primarily in the 1940s through the 1960s. While not as widely collected as Sherman or Continental, Keyes produced stylish and accessible pieces that reflect mid-century Canadian design sensibilities. The company is less documented than its competitors, which makes Keyes finds intriguing for collectors who enjoy uncovering overlooked brands.

Materials & look: Gold- and silver-tone base metals, often with rhinestones, faux pearls, and glass stones are the most common. We have in our collection, a solid gold flower brooch marked “Keyes” as well as a watch, which are more unique examples! Their more common designs ranged from floral motifs and tailored brooches to classic necklaces and earrings. The quality is considered mid-range—more affordable than Sherman, but still attractive and durable.

Signatures: Pieces are typically stamped with "Keyes" in script in an oval frame or, less commonly “KEYES” in block letters. Earrings may have just the script signature. Pieces have been seen also marked “Made in Canada” along with the script maker mark.

1. Because Keyes is not as widely recognized, prices remain relatively modest compared to Sherman or Continental, making it a good entry point for new collectors.
2. Look for pieces with intact plating and brighter rhinestones; the more elaborate or multi-stone designs are more desirable.
3. As documentation on Keyes is limited, provenance and original packaging (when found) may add collector value.

14K Gold Flower Brooch With Amethyst Cabochon marked KEYES in block letters. 

Watch face is marked marked Keyes, Incabloc, 17 Jewels, Swiss.

Keyes Brooch With Specialty Stones

Hallmarks & Canadian precious metal facts (what the stamps mean)

• “Sterling” / “925”: In Canada, sterling silver is .925 minimum when quality-marked; the Precious Metals Marking Act governs how quality marks may be used. competition-bureau.canada.ca
• National Mark (optional): A maple leaf with a “C” border is Canada’s National Mark; it’s optional but, when present, indicates conformity with the Act. Vintage Jewelry Girl Insight: This information is included more for informational purposes. We have never, in over 25 years selling and collecting jewelry seen this mark. competition-bureau.canada.ca
• Researching makers: For Canadian silver and studio marks, 925-1000.com and dealer reference pages are excellent starting points.

Identification signature checklist for Canadian vintage jewelry:

Look for the following names and marks on the backs and clasps of jewelry to identify Canadian made vintage items. What follows is a master list of the best-documented, non-gold Canadian makers collectors actively encounter.

Costume & rhinestone (non-gold)

• Sherman (Montréal) 
• Continental (Montréal)
• D’Orlan (founded Toronto; later also produced Boucher under license)
• Bond-Boyd (Toronto; much sterling & vermeil; later corporate work)
• Coro Canada (Canadian factory line marked “Made in Canada,” often for Birks)
• Butler Fifth Avenue / FAC (Saskatchewan; 1980s)
• Keyes (Montréal)
• Jay-Flex (Montréal; rhinestones set in sterling)
• Danny Pollak (Montréal)
  
• Triad (Canada; mid-century rhinestone and costume pieces)

Modernist & studio (sterling / pewter / enamel; mid-century)

• Guy Vidal (Montréal, pewter)
• Robert Larin (Montréal, pewter & sterling)
• Bernard Chaudron (Québec/Val-David, bronze/pewter/enamel & some sterling)
• de Passillé-Sylvestre (Montréal, enamel on metal)
• Walter Schluep (Montréal, silver)
• Carl Poul Petersen (Montréal, sterling; Jensen-trained, worked at Henry Birks)
• Hans Gehrig (Montréal, studio silversmith)
• Rafael Alfandary (Toronto, brass/copper, often enamel)
• Georges Delrue (Montréal, studio jeweler - gold and silver)

ALL IMAGES ON THIS SITE ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT. Permission must be granted to use them in any way. ©Vintage Jewelry Girl. All rights reserved.