Canadian Vintage Jewelry: The Complete Collector’s Guide (2025)

Canadian Vintage Jewellery: The Complete Collector’s Guide (2025)

Canadian vintage jewellery has a character all its own—think brilliant rhinestone sets from Montréal, bold modernist pewter popularized in the 1960s–70s, and fine silver and gold from storied Canadian houses. This guide brings the history, hallmarks, identification tips, and buying advice together in one place so collectors and shoppers can feel confident.

Why Canadian vintage jewellery stands out

From the late 1940s through the 1980s, Montréal and Toronto were buzzing with design—rhinestone powerhouses like Sherman and Continental made exceptional costume pieces, while modernists like Robert Larin and Guy Vidal pushed brutalist forms in pewter, silver, and mixed metals. Birks, founded in 1879, anchored fine jewellery and silver across the country. Wikipedia  Costume Jewelry Collectors Int'l

The big names (and how to identify them)

Sherman (Montréal, c. 1947/49–1981)

• What to know: Canada’s most collected costume jewellery brand; founded by Gustave (“Gus”) Sherman in Montréal. Wikipedia
• Materials & look: High-grade Austrian/Swarovski rhinestones; immaculate plating; frequent use of navettes and layered, domed brooch forms and full parures. 
• Signatures: “SHERMAN” (caps), “Sherman” (script), and “Sherman Sterling” on early sterling pieces; typically found on clasps, brooch backs, and earring clips.
• Collector tip: Special colourways—such as deep Siam reds, opaque colored stones, fuchsia, hyacinth (orange), and multi-colored (tutti-fruity)—are especially sought after.

Continental (Montréal, 1943–1997)

• What to know: Founded by Sam Baker and Sol Mayoff; by the early 1950s it was a leading producer of mid-priced rhinestone jewellery in Canada and a major rival to Sherman. Some critics say that Continental copied Sherman, which may be somewhat true given that most designers gained inspiration from their rivals. Costume Jewelry Collectors Int'l Vintage Jewelry Girl Insight: Having sold a lot of Continental over the years, we feel that this brand is overlooked and undervalued. Many of their designs are unique and Continental played with a variety of unique stones more than the Sherman company did. 

• Signatures: Usually “Continental” (sometimes stylized) on the reverse. Costume Jewelry Collectors Int'l

D’Orlan (Toronto, est. 1957)

• What to know: Founded by Maurice J. Bradden (trained under Marcel Boucher). In 1984 the company partnered with Nina Ricci; their pieces are known for a 22k triple-plated finish and widespread use of Swarovski crystal. Designs are often classic and conservative, with a few standout exceptions. 
• What to look for: Clean casting, classic designs, consistent gold tone from the triple plating, and signed findings or cartouches. Vintage Jewelry Girl Insight: In terms of value and collectability, look for pieces with color in either the enamel or stone work. These pieces are harder to come by. 

Jay Flex (Montréal, early 1930s–mid-1960s)

• What to know: Sterling-based rhinestone jewellery (often rhodium plated)—unusual quality for rhinestone lines of the day. There is discussion in collector groups regarding this designer mark, questioning if the pieces are in fact sterling silver under the plating or if the “Sterling” refers to the jewelry being of exceptional quality or character. Testing for silver requires either damaging the piece or the plating so this remains inconclusive. Vintage Jewelry Girl insight: Of the pieces that I have had with this mark that I was able to test, I did get a sterling silver read through acid testing methods so I do believe that their metal consists of at least some silver. 
• Signatures: “JAY FLEX STERLING.”

Robert Larin (Montréal, late 1960s–1970s) & Guy Vidal (Montréal, 1960s–1970s)

• What to know: Icons of Canadian modernist/brutalist jewellery. Larin’s studio produced cast pewter (plus mixed metals) with textural, organic forms; Vidal worked in pewter, silver, copper, and other metals with sculptural designs.
• Signatures: Distinct maker marks; Larin’s hallmarks vary but are well documented in collector references. They may include “Robert Larin” in script, or R.Larin in block letters. (Images to come!) Jewellery Kaleidoscope

Birks (Henry Birks & Sons; Montréal origin, 1879–present)

• What to know: Canada’s flagship fine jeweller and silversmith; national expansion began in the early 1900s. Vintage Birks pieces and boxes (especially sterling silver ring boxes) are collectible in their own right. Birks is often referred to as the “Canadian Tiffany” and their jewelry is considered higher end. The vintage pieces sometimes command an impressive price.

Hallmarks & Canadian precious metal facts (what the stamps mean)

• “Sterling” / “925”: In Canada, sterling silver is .925 minimum when quality-marked; the Precious Metals Marking Act governs how quality marks may be used. competition-bureau.canada.ca
• National Mark (optional): A maple leaf with a “C” border is Canada’s National Mark; it’s optional but, when present, indicates conformity with the Act. Vintage Jewelry Girl Insight: This information is included more for informational purposes. We have never, in over 25 years selling and collecting jewelry seen this mark. competition-bureau.canada.ca
• Researching makers: For Canadian silver and studio marks, 925-1000.com and dealer reference pages are excellent starting points.

Identification signature checklist for Canadian vintage jewelry:

Look for the following names and marks on the backs and clasps of jewelry to identify Canadian made vintage items. What follows is a rigorously compiled master list of the best-documented, non-gold Canadian makers collectors actively encounter.

Costume & rhinestone (non-gold)

Sherman (Montréal) · Continental (Montréal) · D’Orlan (founded Toronto; later also produced Boucher under license) · Bond-Boyd (Toronto; much sterling & vermeil; later corporate work) · Coro Canada (Canadian factory line marked “Made in Canada,” often for Birks) · Butler Fifth Avenue / FAC (Saskatchewan; 1980s) · Keyes (Montréal) · Jay-Flex (Montréal; rhinestones set in sterling) · Danny Pollak (Montréal).

Modernist & studio (sterling / pewter / enamel; mid-century)

Guy Vidal (Montréal, pewter) · Robert Larin (Montréal, pewter & sterling) · Bernard Chaudron (Québec/Val-David, bronze/pewter/enamel & some sterling) · de Passillé-Sylvestre (Montréal, enamel on metal) · Walter Schluep (Montréal, silver) · Carl Poul Petersen (Montréal, sterling; Jensen-trained, worked at Henry Birks) · Hans Gehrig (Montréal, studio silversmith) · Rafael Alfandary (Toronto, brass/copper, often enamel) · Georges Delrue (Montréal, studio jeweler).